Technical Library

Hydrosperse (HS)-Treated Pigments; INCI name: Disodium Carboxyethyl Siliconate

Gelest Hydrosperse (HS) surface modification creates an anionic, hydrophilic reacted coating that provides instant dispersion in aqueous media without high shear agitation.

Hydrosperse Treatment Benefits:

  • Improved wetting in aqueous systems
  • Dispersion in water with low shear mixing
  • Complete color development
  • Higher tinting strength
  • Capability to achieve high pigment loading
  • Reduced tendency for color flotation and plate-out

Recommended Uses:

  • Liquid eyeliners
  • Mascaras
  • Oil-in-water foundations
  • Water-based concealers

* For pigments not linked to product pages, please contact Personal Care team for information or for custom treatments.

Pigments:

Eyeliner with HS Pigments

Gelest’s Hydrosperse (HS) surface treated pigments disperse without milling to give fine pigment particle size and full color development.

INCI NameIngredientSupplierWeight %
Phase A
WaterDeionized Water--69.49
Butylene Glycol----6.00
Preservative----0.30
Phase B
WaterDeionized Water--4.00
TromethamineTris Amino®Dow1.00
Phase C
Shellac--Mantrose-Haeuser1.00
Phase D
HydroxyethylcelluloseNatrosol ™250 MRAshland0.50
Phase E
Iron Oxides (&) Disodium Carboxyethyl SiliconateBlack Iron Oxide HSGelest10.00
Phase F
Cera AlbaWhite Beeswax--4.00
Cetyl AlcoholAlfol™ 16Sasol1.25
Sorbitan StearateSpan™ 60Croda1.00
Copernica Cerifera (Carnauba) WaxCarnauba Wax--0.50
Hydrogenated PolyisobutenePanalane® H-300ELipo0.50
Phase G
Preservative----q.s.
WaterDeionized Water--q.s.
Procedure:

  • Combine Phase F and heat to 85-90 °C. Combine Phase A and heat to 50 °C. Premix Phase B and add to Phase A. Add Phase C to Phase AB and stir slowly until dissolved.

  • Add Phase D to Phase ABC and homogenize while increasing heat to 80 °C.

  • At 80 °C, add Phase E to Phase ABCD and heat to 85-90 °C while homogenizing.

  • When Phase ABCDE and Phase F reach 85-90 °C, add Phase F to Phases ABCDE under homogenization. Hold temperature and mix for additional 15 minutes. Cool to 45 °C and add Phase G. Continue to cool to 30 °C.
  • See in Formulary.

    Liquid Eyeliner with HS Pigments (Black and Navy)

    Formulated with HS pigments

    INCI NameIngredientSupplierWeight %
    (Black)
    Weight %
    (Navy)
    Phase A
    DI WaterDI Water--q.s.q.s.
    Magnesium Aluminum Silicate Veegum® Ultra RT Vanderbilt2.502.50
    DI WaterDI Water--5.005.00
    VP/VA CopolymerVP/VA Copolymer--5.005.00
    Butylene GlycolButylene Glycol--1.001.00
    Pentylene GlycolPentylene Glycol--1.001.00
    Xanthan Gum VanZan® NFRT Vanderbilt 0.400.40
    Phase B
    DI WaterDI Water--q.s.q.s.
    Iron Oxides (&) Disodium Carboxyethyl Siliconate Black Iron Oxide HSGelest20.0010.00
    Ultramarines (&) Disodium Carboxyethyl Siliconate Ultramarine Blue HSGelest0.0010.00
    Iron Oxides (&) Disodium Carboxyethyl Siliconate Red Iron Oxide HSGelest0.000.00
    Titanium Dioxide (&) Disodium Carboxyethyl Siliconate Titanium Dioxide HSGelest0.000.00
    Iron Oxides (&) Disodium Carboxyethyl Siliconate Yellow Iron Oxide HSGelest0.000.00
    Citric Acid (&) Aqua25% Citric Acid Solution--q.s.q.s.
    Phase C
    Polysorbate 20Polysorbate 20--0.330.33
    PreservativePreservative--q.s.q.s.
    Phase D
    PPG-17/IPDI/ DMPA CopolymerAvalure® UR 450Lubrizol10.0010.00
    Procedure:

  • Add Magnesium Aluminum Silicate to DI water and homogenize for 15 min at 3000 rpm in main vessel. Dissolve VP/VA Copolymer in DI water (under heat if needed) and add to Phase A.

  • Premix Xanthan gum in glycols. Add Premix to main vessel and homogenize until gum is fully hydrated.

  • In a separate vessel, add pigments to DI water. Mix under a propeller blade until dispersed and adjust pH to 7.0. Add Phase B to Phase A and mix until homogeneous at a lower speed.

  • Add Phase C and mix until dispersed and uniform.

  • Add Phase D and mix until uniform. Adjust batch to pH 7.0, if needed.
  • See in Formulary.