Technical Library

Hydrosperse (HS)-Treated Pigments; INCI name: Disodium Carboxyethyl Siliconate

Gelest Hydrosperse (HS) surface modification creates an anionic, hydrophilic reacted coating that provides instant dispersion in aqueous media without high shear agitation.

Hydrosperse Treatment Benefits:

  • Improved wetting in aqueous systems
  • Dispersion in water with low shear mixing
  • Complete color development
  • Higher tinting strength
  • Capability to achieve high pigment loading
  • Reduced tendency for color flotation and plate-out

Recommended Uses:

  • Liquid eyeliners
  • Mascaras
  • Oil-in-water foundations
  • Water-based concealers

* For pigments not linked to product pages, please contact Personal Care team for information or for custom treatments.


Eyeliner with HS Pigments

Gelest’s Hydrosperse (HS) surface treated pigments disperse without milling to give fine pigment particle size and full color development.

INCI NameIngredientSupplierWeight %
Phase A
WaterDeionized Water--69.49
Butylene Glycol----6.00
Phase B
WaterDeionized Water--4.00
TromethamineTris Amino®Dow1.00
Phase C
Phase D
HydroxyethylcelluloseNatrosol ™250 MRAshland0.50
Phase E
Iron Oxides (&) Disodium Carboxyethyl SiliconateBlack Iron Oxide HSGelest10.00
Phase F
Cera AlbaWhite Beeswax--4.00
Cetyl AlcoholAlfol™ 16Sasol1.25
Sorbitan StearateSpan™ 60Croda1.00
Copernica Cerifera (Carnauba) WaxCarnauba Wax--0.50
Hydrogenated PolyisobutenePanalane® H-300ELipo0.50
Phase G
WaterDeionized Water--q.s.

  • Combine Phase F and heat to 85-90 °C. Combine Phase A and heat to 50 °C. Premix Phase B and add to Phase A. Add Phase C to Phase AB and stir slowly until dissolved.

  • Add Phase D to Phase ABC and homogenize while increasing heat to 80 °C.

  • At 80 °C, add Phase E to Phase ABCD and heat to 85-90 °C while homogenizing.

  • When Phase ABCDE and Phase F reach 85-90 °C, add Phase F to Phases ABCDE under homogenization. Hold temperature and mix for additional 15 minutes. Cool to 45 °C and add Phase G. Continue to cool to 30 °C.
  • See in Formulary.

    Liquid Eyeliner with HS Pigments (Black and Navy)

    Formulated with HS pigments

    INCI NameIngredientSupplierWeight %
    Weight %
    Phase A
    DI WaterDI Water--q.s.q.s.
    Magnesium Aluminum Silicate Veegum® Ultra RT Vanderbilt2.502.50
    DI WaterDI Water--5.005.00
    VP/VA CopolymerVP/VA Copolymer--5.005.00
    Butylene GlycolButylene Glycol--1.001.00
    Pentylene GlycolPentylene Glycol--1.001.00
    Xanthan Gum VanZan® NFRT Vanderbilt 0.400.40
    Phase B
    DI WaterDI Water--q.s.q.s.
    Iron Oxides (&) Disodium Carboxyethyl Siliconate Black Iron Oxide HSGelest20.0010.00
    Ultramarines (&) Disodium Carboxyethyl Siliconate Ultramarine Blue HSGelest0.0010.00
    Iron Oxides (&) Disodium Carboxyethyl Siliconate Red Iron Oxide HSGelest0.000.00
    Titanium Dioxide (&) Disodium Carboxyethyl Siliconate Titanium Dioxide HSGelest0.000.00
    Iron Oxides (&) Disodium Carboxyethyl Siliconate Yellow Iron Oxide HSGelest0.000.00
    Citric Acid (&) Aqua25% Citric Acid Solution--q.s.q.s.
    Phase C
    Polysorbate 20Polysorbate 20--0.330.33
    Phase D
    PPG-17/IPDI/ DMPA CopolymerAvalure® UR 450Lubrizol10.0010.00

  • Add Magnesium Aluminum Silicate to DI water and homogenize for 15 min at 3000 rpm in main vessel. Dissolve VP/VA Copolymer in DI water (under heat if needed) and add to Phase A.

  • Premix Xanthan gum in glycols. Add Premix to main vessel and homogenize until gum is fully hydrated.

  • In a separate vessel, add pigments to DI water. Mix under a propeller blade until dispersed and adjust pH to 7.0. Add Phase B to Phase A and mix until homogeneous at a lower speed.

  • Add Phase C and mix until dispersed and uniform.

  • Add Phase D and mix until uniform. Adjust batch to pH 7.0, if needed.
  • See in Formulary.