Technical Library

Eyebrow Gel (Dark Brown)

Formulated with SR pigments and Propyltrisiloxane TM-031.
Stability: FTH, pass. 3 months at 45 °C, pass.

INCI NameIngredientSupplierWeight %
Phase A
DI WaterDI Water--70.00
Xanthan GumVanZan®RT Vanderbilt0.30
Acacia Senegal GumAcacia Gum--0.60
Phase B
Hydrogenated PolyisobutenePolyisobutene 250--q.s.
Titanium Dioxide (&) TrimethylsiloxysilicateTitanium Dioxide SRGelest1.00
Iron Oxides (&) TrimethylsiloxysilicateRed Iron Oxide SRGelest0.70
Iron Oxides (&) TrimethylsiloxysilicateYellow Iron Oxide SRGelest0.45
Iron Oxides (&) TrimethylsiloxysilicateBlack Iron Oxide SRGelest1.00
Phase C
Isostearyl IsostearateSchercemol™ 1818Lubrizol1.00
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed OilJojoba Oil--0.50
Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed OilSunflower Oil--0.50
Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Almond) OilParaOil™ Almond OilParadigm Science0.50
Persea Gratissima (Avocado) OilParaOil™ Avocado OilParadigm Science0.30
Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernel OilParaOil™ ArganOilParadigm Science0.20
TocopherolVotamin E--0.50
Phase D
Stearalkonium Hectorite (&) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (&) Propylene CarbonateBentone Gel® GTCC VElementis5.00
Phase E
PolyethyleneJeenate 3HJeen2.00
Phase F
Propyl TrisiloxaneSibrid® Propyl Trisiloxane TM-031Gelest5.00
Phase G
Sodium Acrylate / Sodium Acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer (&) Isohexadecane (&) Polysorbate 80Simulgel EGSeppic2.00
Phase H
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein Wheat Protein ExtractVege Tech0.50
DI WaterDI Water--q.s.

  • In Phase A, premix gums in glycerin. Add to DI water and Panthenol under homogenizer and while heating to 75 °C until dispersed and hydrated.

  • Predisperse Phase B.

  • Under propeller blade, mix Phase C while heating. Once mixed, add Phase B ingredients. Heat Phase BC to 75 °C with high agitation.

  • Add Phase D to Phase BC. Mix at high speed until dispersed and thickened.

  • Add Phase E to Phase BCD. Continue mixing and heating Phase BCDE to 75 °C until Phase E is completely melted. Begin cooling under propeller blade to 50 °C.

  • At 50 °C, add Phase F to Phase BCDE and continue mixing.

  • Add Phase G to Phase A and mix until dispersed and thickened.

  • Using homogenizer, slowly incorporate Phase BCDEFG into a Phase A and emulsify.

  • Mix and cool Phase BCDEFG under propeller blade.

  • At 35 °C, add Phase H.

  • Continue to cool to room temperature and adjust pH as needed.
  • Eyeliner with HS Pigments

    Gelest’s Hydrosperse (HS) surface treated pigments disperse without milling to give fine pigment particle size and full color development.

    INCI NameIngredientSupplierWeight %
    Phase A
    WaterDeionized Water--69.49
    Butylene Glycol----6.00
    Phase B
    WaterDeionized Water--4.00
    TromethamineTris Amino®Dow1.00
    Phase C
    Phase D
    HydroxyethylcelluloseNatrosol ™250 MRAshland0.50
    Phase E
    Iron Oxides (&) Disodium Carboxyethyl SiliconateBlack Iron Oxide HSGelest10.00
    Phase F
    Cera AlbaWhite Beeswax--4.00
    Cetyl AlcoholAlfol™ 16Sasol1.25
    Sorbitan StearateSpan™ 60Croda1.00
    Copernica Cerifera (Carnauba) WaxCarnauba Wax--0.50
    Hydrogenated PolyisobutenePanalane® H-300ELipo0.50
    Phase G
    WaterDeionized Water--q.s.

  • Combine Phase F and heat to 85-90 °C. Combine Phase A and heat to 50 °C. Premix Phase B and add to Phase A. Add Phase C to Phase AB and stir slowly until dissolved.

  • Add Phase D to Phase ABC and homogenize while increasing heat to 80 °C.

  • At 80 °C, add Phase E to Phase ABCD and heat to 85-90 °C while homogenizing.

  • When Phase ABCDE and Phase F reach 85-90 °C, add Phase F to Phases ABCDE under homogenization. Hold temperature and mix for additional 15 minutes. Cool to 45 °C and add Phase G. Continue to cool to 30 °C.
  • Liquid Eyeliner with HS Pigments (Black and Navy)

    Formulated with HS pigments

    INCI NameIngredientSupplierWeight %
    Weight %
    Phase A
    DI WaterDI Water--q.s.q.s.
    Magnesium Aluminum Silicate Veegum® Ultra RT Vanderbilt2.502.50
    DI WaterDI Water--5.005.00
    VP/VA CopolymerVP/VA Copolymer--5.005.00
    Butylene GlycolButylene Glycol--1.001.00
    Pentylene GlycolPentylene Glycol--1.001.00
    Xanthan Gum VanZan® NFRT Vanderbilt 0.400.40
    Phase B
    DI WaterDI Water--q.s.q.s.
    Iron Oxides (&) Disodium Carboxyethyl Siliconate Black Iron Oxide HSGelest20.0010.00
    Ultramarines (&) Disodium Carboxyethyl Siliconate Ultramarine Blue HSGelest0.0010.00
    Iron Oxides (&) Disodium Carboxyethyl Siliconate Red Iron Oxide HSGelest0.000.00
    Titanium Dioxide (&) Disodium Carboxyethyl Siliconate Titanium Dioxide HSGelest0.000.00
    Iron Oxides (&) Disodium Carboxyethyl Siliconate Yellow Iron Oxide HSGelest0.000.00
    Citric Acid (&) Aqua25% Citric Acid Solution--q.s.q.s.
    Phase C
    Polysorbate 20Polysorbate 20--0.330.33
    Phase D
    PPG-17/IPDI/ DMPA CopolymerAvalure® UR 450Lubrizol10.0010.00

  • Add Magnesium Aluminum Silicate to DI water and homogenize for 15 min at 3000 rpm in main vessel. Dissolve VP/VA Copolymer in DI water (under heat if needed) and add to Phase A.

  • Premix Xanthan gum in glycols. Add Premix to main vessel and homogenize until gum is fully hydrated.

  • In a separate vessel, add pigments to DI water. Mix under a propeller blade until dispersed and adjust pH to 7.0. Add Phase B to Phase A and mix until homogeneous at a lower speed.

  • Add Phase C and mix until dispersed and uniform.

  • Add Phase D and mix until uniform. Adjust batch to pH 7.0, if needed.
  • Waterproof Mascara with SR Pigments

    The Sebum Resistant (SR)-treated pigments increase water resistance and adhesion to the lashes while reducing the tendency to smudge.

    INCI NameIngredient SupplierWeight %
    Phase A
    IsododecanePermethyl® 99APresperse23.05
    PolyethyleneA-C® Polyethylene 6AHoneywell11.00
    Euphorbia Cerifera WaxCandelilla WaxFrank B. Ross4.50
    Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate PrisorinePrisorine™ 3700Croda0.25
    Benzoic Acid----0.20
    Phase B
    Pentaerythrityl Rosinate--Ashland2.00
    IsododecanePermethyl® 99APresperse2.00
    Phase C
    Zinc StearateZinc Stearate 921-GBrenntag1.00
    Silica SilylateSilicon Dioxide, HMDZ-treatedGelest1.00
    Phase D
    IsododecanePermethyl® 99APresperse2.00
    Iron Oxide (&) TrimethylsiloxysilicateBlack Iron Oxide SRGelest12.00
    Phase E
    Petroleum Distillates (&) Distearyldimonium Hectorite (&) Propylene CarbonateBentone Gel® SS-71Elementis35.00

  • Combine Phase B in a closed vessel and stir slowly until uniform.

  • Combine Phase D and mill using high shear agitation.

  • Combine Phase A in a closed vessel. Heat to 95 °C with stirring until clear.

  • Add Phase B with stirring.

  • Add Phase C and homogenize until dispersed.

  • Add Phase D and homogenize until dispersed.

  • Add Phase E and homogenize until dispersed.

  • Stir with side sweep agitation while cooling to 30 °C.