Technical Library

Eyeshadow with SS Pigments

The skin feel of eyeshadow made with Stearyl Triethoxysilane (SS)-treated pigments is exceptionally moist and soft. The long chain stearylsilane is effective in improving compressibility of pigments and pearls while improving skin adhesion.

INCI NameIngredientSupplierWeight %
Talc (&) Stearyl TriethoxysilaneTalc SSGelest17.00
Titanium Dioxide (&) Stearyl TriethoxysilaneTitanium Dioxide SSGelest8.00
Manganese Violet (&) Stearyl Triethoxysilane (&) MethiconeManganese Violet SSGelest7.00
Carmine (&) Stearyl Triethoxysilane (&) MethiconeCarmine SSH--7.00
Zinc StearateZinc Stearate 921-GBrenntag3.80
Nylon-12Orgasol® 2002DLipo3.00
Benzoic Acid----0.20
Mica & Titanium Dioxide (&) Ferric Ferrocyanide (&) Stearyl TriethoxysilaneCloisonne™ Violet SSBASF49.00
PolydiethylsiloxaneSiBrid® Diethicone DE-23Gelest2.00
Octyldodecyl StearateCeraphyl® ODSAshland2.00
Fluorophlogopite (&) Titanium Dioxide (&) Stearyl TriethoxysilaneSachet Sparkling White SS--1.00

Sakura Pink Eyeshadow

Ultramarine Pink is the only UV and heat stable “red” pigment permitted for use around eyes and is more cost effective than organic pigments.

INCI NameIngredientSupplierWeight %
Mica (&) Stearyl TriethoxysilaneSerecite (Mica) SSGelest50.00
Talc (&) Stearyl TriethoxysilaneTalc SSGelestq.s.
Nylon-12 (&) Sodium HyaluronateOrgasol®2002DLipo4.00
Boron Nitride--Saint Gobainq.s.
Zinc Stearate----10.00
Titanium Dioxide (&) Stearyl TriethoxysilaneTitanium Dioxide SSGelest10.00
Ultramarines (&) Stearyl TriethoxysilaneUltramarine Pink SSGelest5.00
Ultramarines (&) Stearyl TriethoxysilaneUltramarine Violet SSGelest0.10
Ultramarines (&) Stearyl TriethoxysilaneUltramarine Blue SSGelest0.10
Manganese Violet (&) Stearyl Triethoxysilane (&) MethiconeManganese Violet SSGelest0.10
Iron Oxides (&) Stearyl TriethoxysilaneBlack Iron Oxide SSGelest0.01
Iron Oxides (&) Stearyl TriethoxysilaneRed Iron Oxide SSGelest0.05
Iron Oxides (&) Stearyl TriethoxysilaneYellow Iron Oxide SSGelest0.05
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite (&) Titanium Dioxide (&) Tin OxideSyncrystal Silk SilverEckart10.00
PolydiethylsiloxaneSiBrid® Diethicone DE-15Gelest3.75
Diisostrearyl Malate--Lubrizol1.90
Isostearyl Neopentanoate --Lubrizol1.90

Hot-Pour Eyeshadow with DE Pigments

Diethicone (DE)-treated pigments and minerals disperse easily into this hot-pour eyeshadow and help to contribute to the satiny, creamy texture and ease of application desired in eye area products.

INCI NameIngredient SupplierWeight %
Phase A
IsoeicosanePermethyl 102APresperse18.00
IsododecanePermethyl 99APresperse12.00
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene----5.75
PolydiethylsiloxaneSiBrid® Diethicone DE-12Gelest6.50
Lauryl MethiconeSiBrid® Lauryl Methicone TM-121Gelest3.75
Capric/Caprylylic Triglyceride (&) Disteardimonium Hectorite (&) Propylene Carbonate Bentone Gel CCTElementis9.10
Phase B
Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) WaxCarnauba WaxKoster Kuenen3.65
Ozokerite--Strahl & Pitsch1.25
Phase C
Titanium Dioxide (&) PolydiethylsiloxaneTitanium Dioxide DEGelest2.50
Iron Oxides (&) PolydiethylsiloxaneYellow Iron Oxide DEGelest3.60
Iron Oxides (&) PolydiethylsiloxaneRed Iron Oxide DEGelest1.90
Iron Oxides (&) PolydiethylsiloxaneBlack Iron Oxide DEGelest0.60
Talc (&) PolydiethylsiloxaneTalc DEGelest1.40
Mica (&) PolydiethylsiloxaneSericite DEGelest25.00
Phase D
Mica (&) Titanium Dioxide (&) Iron OxideColorona BronzeEMD/Rona4.00
Phase E

  • Combine and mix Phase A under propeller blade until dispersed while heating to 80 °C.

  • Add Phase B and mix until melted and uniform.

  • Preblend Phase C. Add Phase C to Phase AB and mix until dispersed and uniform.

  • Add to Phase D to Phase ABC and mix until uniform. Add Phase E and mix until uniform. Pour at 80 °C.
  • Long-Wearing Eyeshadow with SR Pigments and SiBrid® DE-23

    In eyeshadows, Sebum Resistant (SR)-treated pigments improve wear and skin adhesion due to low oil absorption and better H2O repellency. SR treated pigments and pearls greatly increase compressibility of powders without increasing the tendency for glazing.

    INCI NameIngredientSupplierWeight %
    Phase A
    Mica (&) TrimethylsiloxysilicateSerecite (Mica) SRGelest30.00
    Iron Oxides (&) TrimethylsiloxysilicateBlack Iron Oxide SRGelest4.00
    Iron Oxides (&) TrimethylsiloxysilicateRed Iron Oxide SRGelest3.00
    Iron Oxides (&) TrimethylsiloxysilicateYellow Iron Oxide SRGelest3.00
    Talc (&) TrimethylsiloxysilicateTalc SRGelest53.30
    Zinc StearateZinc Stearate 921-GBrenntag3.00
    Nylon-12 Orgasol®2002DVantage2.00
    Benzoic Acid----0.20
    Phase B
    PolydiethylsiloxaneSiBrid® Diethicone DE-23Gelest1.00
    Octyldodecyl StearateCeraphyl® ODSAshland0.50

  • Mix Phase A for 3x 15 seconds on high speed .

  • Add Phase B and mix for another 3x 15 seconds.

  • Press into pans.
  • One Pot Hot Pour Makeup for Eyes and Cheeks

    INCI NameIngredientSupplierWeight %
    Phase A
    PolydiethylsiloxaneSibrid® Diethicone DE-12Gelestq.s.
    Stearyl MethiconeSiBrid® Stearyl Methicone TM-181Gelest4.30
    Ethylhexyl Palmitate--Ashland3.00
    Copernica Cerifera (Carnauba) WaxCarnauba Wax 63Strahl & Pitsch6.25
    OzokeriteOzokerite 180Koster Kuenen2.75
    Phase B
    Monotriacontyl-terminated PolydimethylsiloxaneDevelopmentalGelest6.00
    Isododecane (&) Disteardimonium Hectorite & Propylene CarbonateBentone Gel ISDV--2.75
    Phase C
    Titanium Dioxide & PolydiethylsiloxaneTitanium Dioxide DEGelest3.10
    Iron Oxides & PolydiethylsiloxaneYellow Iron Oxide DEGelest0.50
    Iron Oxides & PolydiethylsiloxaneRed Iron Oxide DEGelest1.40
    Iron Oxides & PolydiethylsiloxaneChromium Green DEGelest4.50
    Talc & PolydiethylsiloxaneTalc DEGelest1.00
    PolydiethylsiloxaneSibrid® Diethicone DE-12Gelestq.s.
    Phase D
    Mica & Stearyl TriethoxysilaneSeribriteTM SSGelest15.00
    Phase E
    Phase F
    --GlassMira® PearlsSandream Ent.10.00
    Phase G

    Pearlescent Copper Eyeshadow with SS Pigments and SiBrid® DE-23

    Alone or as part of a binder system, polydiethylsiloxanes offer excellent slip, spread, and blending of powdered cosmetics. Like dimethicones, diethicones improve water repellency but are more lubricious, have increased cushion, and are more compatible with other cosmetic ingredients. The Silky Slip (SS)-treated pigments and pearls help contribute to longer wear on skin and a softer feel.

    INCI NameIngredientSupplierWeight %
    Phase A
    Talc (&) Stearyl TriethoxysilaneTalc SSGelest20.80
    Nylon-12 Orgasol®2002DVantage8.00
    Zinc StearateZinc Stearate 921-GBrenntag5.00
    Iron Oxides (&) Stearyl TriethoxysilaneYellow Iron Oxide SSGelest4.00
    Iron Oxides (&) Stearyl TriethoxysilaneRed Iron Oxide SSGelest3.00
    Iron Oxides (&) Stearyl TriethoxysilaneBlack Iron Oxide SSGelest3.00
    Sodium Benzoate----0.20
    Phase B
    Iron Oxides (&) Mica (&) Titanium Dioxide (&) Stearyl TriethoxysilaneCloisonné Copper, SS-treatedBASF/Gelest50.00
    Phase C
    Ethylhexyl PalmitateCeraphyl® 368Ashland3.00
    PolydiethylsiloxaneSiBrid® Diethicone DE-23Gelest3.00

  • Combine Phase 1 and mix well.

  • Mill at high speed until no undispersed color remains.

  • Add Phase 2 with gentle agitation.

  • Combine and spray on Phase 3 while agitating.

  • Mill through a coarse screen to disperse.

  • Press into pans.
  • Shimmer to Pearl Eyeshadow with DM Pigments

    Pigmented powdered products, such as eyeshadows, benefit from the use of dimethicone (DM)-treated pigments. These treated pigments offer good hydrophobic properties that improve wear, improve powder flow, help to produce smoother powders, and increase color development.

    INCI NameIngredientSupplierWeight %
    Talc (&) DimethiconeTalc DMGelestq.s.
    Irons Oxides (&) DimethiconeRed Iron Oxide DMGelest3.00
    Irons Oxides (&) DimethiconeYellow Iron Oxide DMGelest4.00
    Irons Oxides (&) DimethiconeBlack Iron Oxide DMGelest3.00
    Zinc StearateZinc Stearate 921-GBrenntag5.00
    Nylon-12Orgasol® 2002DLipo8.00
    Iron Oxides (&) Mica (&) Titanium DioxidePearl--q.s.
    PolydiethylsiloxaneSibrid® Diethicone DE-23Gelest3.00
    Ethylhexyl PalmitateCeraphyl 368Ashland3.00

    Soft Frost Eyeshadow with AS Pigments

    Polycaprylylsilsesquioxane (AS)-treated pigments help to improve color development, transfer resistance, and wear time in color cosmetic formulations.

    INCI NameIngredientSupplierWeight %
    Talc (&) TriethoxycaprylylsilaneTalc ASGelest53.30
    Mica (&) TriethoxycaprylylsilaneSericite (Mica) ASGelest10.00
    Ultramarines (&) TriethoxycaprylylsilaneUltramarine Blue ASGelest4.00
    Iron Oxides (&) TriethoxycaprylylsilaneYellow Iron Oxide ASGelest3.00
    Iron Oxides (&) TriethoxycaprylylsilaneBlack Iron Oxide ASGelest2.00
    Zinc StearateZinc Stearate 921-GBrenntag3.00
    Nylon-12Orgasol® 2002D Nat CosVantage Specialty3.00
    Benzoic Acid----0.20
    Alumina (&) Titanium Dioxide (&) StearyltriethoxysilaneSpectraflex® Gold, SS-treatedSun Chemical20.00
    PolydiethylsiloxaneSiBrid® Diethicone DE-23Gelest0.50
    Octyldodecyl StearateCeraphyl® ODSAshland1.00